Fragrance News
Issue 2. Spring 2010
2010 may be a tough year for fragrance editorial
2009 saw fragrance editorial increase by 5.4% compared to 2008 despite a big fall in fragrance advertising.
As we outlined in our presentation ‘The Press Marketing Reality’ at the Fragrance Foundation breakfast on the 22nd January this could lead to brands finding it harder to get editorial in 2010 unless there is an increase in fragrance advertising spend.
Fragrance represents just under 9% of all beauty editorial and fragrance brands represent a significant 24% of the 2,500 active brands in the beauty market today.
Advertising revenues have been hit, falling by 6% for the beauty market at rate card. Spend was down by just under £20 million with the largest reduction due to the fragrance industry’s retraction of just under £16 million pounds. This was by far the largest decrease of any of the beauty categories at minus 22% and cosmetics was the only other category to see a reduction in advertising.
Fragrance’s share of beauty advertising was 18% in 2009 a fall of 4% compared to 2008 resulting in fragrance moving from second place position, just behind skincare in 2008, to third place in 2009 behind haircare and skincare.
Editorial was a more encouraging story with more pages dedicated to beauty and fragrance outperforming the market with a 5.4% increase. Apart from cosmetics, which increased by 5.6%, every other category was subject to a reduction in the number of editorial pages.
Fragrances’ share of beauty editorial is a slightly better picture compared to advertising and the rankings for all the beauty categories have remained unchanged year on year with Fragrance lying in fourth place behind haircare, cosmetics, and skincare. However fragrance still accounts for less than 9% of all beauty editorial.
Looking at fragrance editorial in detail it is clear there is a tale of two halves. Across the first 6 months of 2009 fragrance increased its editorial by 29.6% compared to the same period in 2008. However in the second half of the year those early gains were negated with an 8.8% fall compared to the second half of 2008. In fact in December dated publications fragrance editorial was down 14% compared to 2008.
The disproportionate increase in coverage across the first 6 months of 2009 can be mostly attributed to ‘Face Of/Celebrity/Spokesperson’ coverage which was not as nearly as strong in the second half of the year.
There has been a small shift from national press to consumer press, from both the advertising and editorial stand point. The consumer press has increased its coverage of fragrance while national press has been reduced. The national press has been hit hardest from the fall in fragrance advertising revenues, but from a smaller base. There are many titles that have increased their fragrance editorial content quite significantly and in some cases by 100 plus percent.
Fragrance brands must constantly review their press strategies in order to maximise opportunities and to work closely with those publications that are on-side to build awareness, build the brand, and through that, increase sales.

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