Fragrance News
Issue 1. Autumn 2009
Q&A
Roja, please tell us a little about yourself. How did you get started in the fragrance industry?
I fell in love with scent when I was a very small boy. I was intrigued that each bottle on my mother’s dressing table was able to give out such a different scent, each like a genie weaving spell that transported us away from the mundane to a world full of fantasy. As a youth I was good at sciences and languages, taking Russian, French, Latin, English Language, and English Literature as my subjects. Having to decide which direction to take, I decided to take sciences with a mind to go into medical research.
When I was in Cambridge I was introduced to Robert Guerlain, who was one of the three cousins, who owned and ran the great venerable family house that was. I had been trying to research the history of the house – he said, “why don’t we give him a job as he will be less nuisance in the house than out of it.” And so that was that, I was employed by Guerlain and trained by them. My first job was to devise a perfumery training course, which became the industry standard. I was then asked if I would train the press, and have trained nearly every major beauty editor in Britain.
Before starting my own company, where we have worked for brands as diverse as Coty, Lauder, and Penhaligons, notwithstanding that we set up P&G’s global training department, I worked extensively in America, Europe and Asia, training sales staff, buyers, and press – always with courses and events for clients. Without wanted to sound big headed I have no doubt that I have most likely trained more people worldwide than anyone else in the industry: which is why I have always been a fan of FiFi as it stands for what I have given my life to.
You run several successful businesses, including RDPR and the Haute Parfumerie in Harrods. What do you think is the secret of work/life balance?
Only work with people who are great, never compromise, and never suffer fools – the world is full of them. If you stick to that it will never seem like you are working.
You've travelled and worked extensively all over the world. What are the main similarities and differences between fragrance customers in say New York, London and Dubai?
Clients fall into two main camps – the sheep that follow the crowd and have no real understanding of their purchase and those who really care about their scent. Education and elucidation can help change the former into the later. Most people want to be the later. I believe I still hold the ‘accolade’ of being Saks 5th Avenue’s highest revenue generator, bringing in over $65000 in a half day – the reason is simple people want to meet someone who cares about them and who will help them find the perfect scent for them – it is the ultimate quest for most clients to find the scent that expresses them and their personality above all others.
What do you think really influences the way consumers buy fragrances today?
A good advert, a strong brand name, a knowledgeable and skilful sales-person, a great juice and exclusivity – one, some, or all of the afore-mentioned.
What is your favourite fragrance moment?
I think the Tom Ford Private Blends are great. They are polarizing – you love them or hate them – without question they engender a reaction. Any scent which does not do that is bland. It is interesting to see how other houses are so heavily influenced by them too, all-in-all I think they are one of the best things to have happened in perfumery in years.
You've met so many famous people through your work. Who, good or bad, has left a fragrant impression on your mind?
Sophia Grossman, who made some of the biggest block-busters of all time - Paris, Tresor, and Eternity - I love the fact that she loves red wine, smokes heavily, is small, smart witty, and kind. Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the perfumer who gave us Black Cashmere, Happy and many of the Tom Ford Private Blends – he is head perfumer at Givaudan. He is a genius, his deep knowledge of our industry, combined with his passion for scent and creativity make him one of the pre-eminent Titans of perfumery, a modern genius - my living hero.
What's your earliest childhood scent memory?
I always thought my earliest memory of scent was that of the evening when my mother came to kiss me good night in a cocktail dress, lit from behind, I remember the smell of her face powder and her scent. I am sure that it was at that moment my destiny was marked out.
And now a few questions based on the famous Proust Questionnaire:
What is your favourite word?
Harmony
What is your least favourite word?
Situation. Every-one says everything is a situation – the weather situation, the tube situation, the traffic situation aarrgghh….
What turns you on?
Laughter and kindness
What turns you off?
Mean-spiritedness, egos, and bigotry
What smell or scent do you love?
The scent of a wood in late autumn or that of a simple sprig of lily of the valley
What smell or scent do you hate?
The big synthetics of our industry - Calone, Veltol, and Di-hydro Myrcenol
What profession other than your own would you love to attempt?
Gemologist
What profession would you hate to attempt?
Finanace
In this great world of fragrance, who inspires you?
Roudnitska for his elegant pared down simplicity, Daltroff for breaking the rules, Coty for re-inventing the rules and shaping modern perfumery, Flores-Roux for understanding the past as he creates the future
Any last thoughts or advice you'd like to impart to the next generation of fragrance professionals?
Be daring and take risks and never lose focus of your goals - accountants and those allied to them stifle creativity. Never believe your own propaganda, a little humility is beautiful to behold - an ego is repulsive
Email: r.dove@rdprgroup.com
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