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Key Fragrance Findings from The Premium Market Report 2010/11 »

Women’s Fragrances (Cosmo) »

Women’s Fragrances in the UK (Mintel) »

Men’s Fragrances in the UK (Mintel) »

Fragrances retailing in the UK (Mintel) »

UK Fine Fragrance Industry Market Research (Mintel) »

Frequently Asked Questions »

Key Fragrance Findings from The Premium Market Report 2010/11*

New exclusive consumer research for 2011 is available for this year’s Premium
Market Report, with results detailing women’s reasons for purchasing fragrance. Over
2,000 adults were interviewed in the survey carried out by IM Associates in
partnership with leading research company YouGov.

Importance of trying before buying

One in two women interviewed said they would never buy a fragrance
without trying it first.
Women under 24 were the most insistent on trying before buying.
This backs up research from last year’s report which revealed that 88% of
consumers selected fragrance for the smell.
Given the large number of new and existing brands vying for people’s
attention on-shelf, the fragrance industry must provide more opportunities to
test and sample brands. Simply put, if women have the opportunity to try a
fragrance, they are more likely to buy it.

One signature fragrance versus a “wardrobe”

When asked whether women wore one fragrance alone or several depending
on their mood or occasion, 1 in 3 said they wore several different fragrances.
However, women under 24 were more likely to wear one special fragrance all
the time, rather than several according to mood or occasion.
Could younger women be daunted by the large number of fragrances on sale
so stick to one favourite? This important demographic needs close attention.

Fragrance collections: the new flanker?

Fragrance collections were a trend first noted in the 2009 edition of The
Premium Market Report, and accelerated in 2010.
Notable fragrance collections in 2010 included Chloé Eau de Fleur, DKNY
Candy Apple, with celebrity offerings such as Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely
Collection and Mariah Carey Lollipop Bling.
Like flankers, bringing out a collection injects newness and interest into a
brand with the added bonus of securing additional shelf space and visibility
in-store.

Celebrity slow-down

The number of celebrity fragrance launches has slowed significantly in the
past two years.
Some of the original celebrity franchises have become mainstream, launching
regular flankers, such as Britney Spears, The Beckhams, Kate Moss and
Jennifer Lopez.
A new crop of celebrity fashion designer fragrances is gaining prominence at
a time that the celebrity trend is showing signs of running out of steam.
Examples: Orla Kiely launched her first signature fragrance in 2010; celebrity
shoe designer Jimmy Choo launched a first fragrance in January 2011.

Playing it safe

The recession has made fragrance brands more conservative in their creations,
playing safe with tried and tested concepts such as floral and oriental accords.
Another interpretation of playing it safe has been the retro or vintage trend,
first shown in Kate Moss Vintage in 2009. Then came Chloé Love, a powdery
blend of heliotrope and iris, said to reproduce the smell of vintage rice
powder.
The recent trend for woody women’s fragrances was less pronounced in 2010.
The exception was Thierry Mugler Womanity, probably the stand-out
fragrance in terms of olfactive daring, combining woody notes with a leathery
marine note from caviar.

Importance of press advertising

According to mymarketmonitor.com, press advertising is still considered key
to getting a fragrance brand noticed in the run up to Christmas.
In 2010, three out of the five top advertised brands were new fragrances:
Sarah Jessica Parker NYC, Chloé Love Chloé and Gucci Guilty.
In men’s fragrance, new brands tended to rely more on editorial than
advertising. With big company backing, Dolce & Gabbana the one gentlemen,
Chanel Bleu de Chanel and Marc Jacobs Bang were amongst the most heavily
supported brands in press.

*The Premium Market Report is published by I M Associates.

NEW FOR THIS YEAR: Fragrance Foundation members can purchase The
Premium Market Report for £750, which includes a £100 saving on the cover price.

For further report details, visit: www.imogenmatthews.co.uk/premium.html

Research into the women's fragrance market, USA, in partnership with Cosmopolitan and CosmoGirl magazines

Summary of Findings

Girls start to use fragrance at age 10, with 12% starting below 10, including body spray
On average the respondents claimed to own 7 fragrances
58% of respondents claimed to use fragrance on a daily basis
82% (4 out of 5) claimed to use fragrance “for themselves”
Reasons for switching to a different fragrance in the “wardrobe”:

Change of mood (71%)
Special occasion (54%0
Change of season (28%)
Friend’s recommendation (16%)
Popularity of scent (10%)
No particular reason (15%)

On average, women wear a favourite fragrance for three years
In choosing to buy,

53% would tend to try a new brand
47% would buy their favourite brand

What are women looking for in a fragrance

Long lasting scent
Makes me feel attractive (esp. under-25s)
One that others comment on (esp. under-25s)
Makes me feel sexy (esp. 25-49s)
Changes or enhances my mood

Fragrance types and propensities

Trend towards fresh, clean, flowery, fruity, citrus
Tend away from marine, herbal, musky, spicy, woody
Under-18s prefer citrus notes
Under-25s prefer fruity and flowery notes
35-45s and over like musky notes

Purchase decision making and behaviour

25-49s know what they want but also tend to buy on impulse
Under-25s tend to explore different scents and brands
Three out of five women were more likely to buy a fragrance samples in a magazine (foil pouch samples preferred)
Three out of four women say that when they find a fragrance they really like, they tell their friends about it
Women claimed to spend more on fragrance for themselves than on fragrance as a gift
Women on average buy 4 fragrances a year
Under-25s like the shopping experience to include great music, chic surroundings and good-looking consultants
25-49s prefer to shop for fragrance without being bothered
Three in five women expressed an interest in joining a fragrance club.

(See charges: ”Fragrance Purchase Decisions”; “Role in deciding to buy a new fragrance”; “Shopping outlets preferred”; “Degree of influence on fragrance purchase”)

Download to pdf (3Mb)

Women's Fragrances, UK Market Intelligence Report, August 2007

Market Value & Growth

Estimated value 2007 = £638m. Average annual growth rate ~ 5%.
Over 200 new launches each year, of which only 5% are still on the market after two years and only 3% after three years.
Top five companies command 62% of market value.

Emphasis on the need to Educate the Consumer and on Sampling

Sales staff need selling skills and support in order to advise customers correctly. More fragrance companies need to invest in teaching their consultants how to sell fragrance as well as the intricacies of fragrance layering and wardrobing.
Fragrance brands should also take their cue from premium skincare, where consultant training is a priority.
Lessons can be learned from the wine industry that is helping to teach people how to choose from the vast number of products on sale. Segmenting fragrances (by fragrance family) may encourage trial of new fragrances with a similar feel to personal favourites and also make buying fragrance as a gift much easier.
Fragrances sold in self-selection should carry stickers on the outer carton telling the consumer what the key ingredients are.
Leaflets in boxes could also contain a plethora of information for the consumer on the fragrance, its ingredients, on how to wear and tips on fragrance layering. This is standard for many prestige skincare brands.
Samples can be used to explain fragrance notes.
Online sampling has been successfully carried out by niche brand Ormonde Jayne, which sells sample sizes of ten products for £20, … introducing people to the complete range at an attractive price.

Gifting is still a major Purchase Driver

~ 75% annual fragrance sales are made in November & December
One in two women receive fragrance as a gift
51% of women claimed to have bought fragrance as a gift for their partner
More than one in two women buy scent for friends and relatives
34% of men “usually” get fragrance as a gift

Market Drivers

Celebrity brands are driving market growth among younger fragrance users. Over 30 new celebrity fragrances were launched in 2007. One in five 16-24 year olds claim to own at least one, compared with one in twenty over-45s. Celebrity fragrances provide the entry point for young people into the whole luxury sector.
The market driver is disposability.
Niche luxury brands, with over 200 on offer in the UK through high street retail or the Internet, are driving market growth in the upper price sector.
The market drivers are value, individuality, rarity and authenticity.

Other Market Influences

REACH legislation (Registration, Evaluation & Authorisation of Chemicals), which entered UK law in June 2007, will include many aroma chemicals. This is expected to reduce perfume creativity because of the vast re-allocation of resources towards testing existing ingredients.
Smoking ban in enclosed public places, effective from July 2007. Unpleasant background environmental odours have become more apparent. This leads to a number of new product opportunities, such as more refillable purse sprays for quick re-application of fragrance.

Overall View

The UK women’s fragrance market is buoyant but increased growth relies of more sophisticated campaigns and helping the consumer to find the right brand.
Market growth is expected to exceed 5% pa over next five years, driven by:

Trading up by younger sector moving from celebrity to designer
Increased penetration with more people using fragrance more frequently
Acceptance and use of a “wardrobe” of fragrances.

Men's Fragrances, UK Market Intelligence Report, September 2007

Market Profile

Estimated value 2007 = £360m. Average annual growth rate < 4%.
Usage penetration ~ 50%
Boys are buying into fragrance at an earlier age. Lynx is the catalyst for getting 10 year olds interested in fragrance
Teenagers and young adults are the key sector driving future market growth
There are also untapped opportunities in the over-45s market who did not grow up with Lynx
A key issue is the lack of involvement of men in the purchasing process
More than one in three men receive fragrance as a gift
~ 40% of men do not view fragrance as a necessary grooming item
One in four men prefer to use scented toiletries rather than ASL or EdT

Emphasis on the need for more effective Sampling

There are opportunities for much more effective fragrance sampling campaigns and outlets, e.g.

Gyms, sports clubs, health clubs, golf clubs, DIY stores, hairdressers, florists, wine stores, garage forecourts
Online fragrance sites but also sites selling CDs, DVDs, books, electronic equipment, holidays and tours
Online dating sites and virtual life sites

Men’s magazines play a significant role but are not used by fragrance houses to their full potential
Opportunity for new sampling sizes (wallet size) and formats (gels)

Gifting is the Purchase Driver

~ 75% annual fragrance sales are made in November & December
51% of women claimed to have bought fragrance as a gift for their partner
More than one in two women buy scent for friends and relatives
34% of men “usually” get fragrance as a gift
GWP is a significant sales booster

Market Drivers

The Lynx effect for under-25s, buying into Lynx brand values.
Trading up to lifestyle designer brands (Armani, Hugo Boss, Dolce & Gabbana)
Opportunities for addressing the over-45 market with brand values associated with vintage, elegance and class

Fragrances retailing in the UK

Ten key market findings from Mintel, the independent market analyst.

Boots, the leading fragrance retailer, has grown market share from 32% in 2001 to 32.5% in 2004, due mainly to price promotions, expansion of the fragrance ranges, and improved store design. Meanwhile the pharmacists sector has been concentrating rapidly into the hands of the big three specialists, Lloyds, Moss (Alliance) and Superdrug. Still, chemists have lost share of fragrances as a group from 9% in 2001 to 7.5% in 2004.
While the department store sector has been losing share within retailing as a whole, there are some positives for the fragrances sector. The three major chains, Debenhams, John Lewis and House of Fraser, all have growth plans for the next five years, which will favour premium fragrances.
Although French-owned Sephora has not been able to find its feet in the UK, two other chains are doing well. The Perfume Shop, owned by Merchant Retail, has grown rapidly. Meanwhile, the similarly named Fragrance Shop is also now expanding. It was bought by Peacocks in June 2004, at which time it had 29 stores and Peacocks is already well underway with its intention to grow this to a 150-store chain.
Mintel’s survey shows that Boots dominates as a source of women’s fragrances, with 32% of consumers having shopped there in the last 12 months. The next four sources visited were duty-free/travel (16%), Perfume Shop (12%), Debenhams (11%) and Avon (10%).
Boots is also dominant in men’s fragrances (25%). The challenge for Boots is to persuade even more customers to use its stores while driving up average transaction values.
Mintel’s research indicates that the Body Shop appears to be missing out on the lucrative 15-24-year-old market. It does appear to have a higher appeal among families with 10-14-year-olds for female fragrances, suggesting that it can profit by selling fragrances to children and those in their early teens.
The Perfume Shop has struck a cord with the younger audience, capturing 12% of all adults for women’s fragrances but 24% of 15-24s. It performs well among the ABC1 pre-/no family group and households with two full-time earners.
Supermarkets and Superdrug feature strongly in the profile of retailers used for buying men’s fragrances. This could be linked to men’s preference for self-service, as well as these retailers having a less intimidating environment than department stores.
Currently sales through Internet specialists are estimated to account for less than a 1% share of the whole market. The Internet is thought by trade respondents to be best for those people who want to top up their fragrances.
Mintel predicts that fragrances retailing market will increase by 21% over the 2005-10 period, bringing the market to an estimated £1.06 billion by 2010.

UK Fine Fragrance Industry Market Research

Commissioned by The Fragrance Foundation United Kingdom – May 2005

General Objectives

Business planning
to help to inform the business plans of Fragrance Foundation members by providing insights into the behaviour and attitudes of the fragrance-buying public.
Consumer engagement
to engage more effectively with the fragrance-buying public by generating interesting sound bites underpinned by research data .

Research method
A review of secondary sources supported by interviews with industry experts and members of the fragrance-buying public, conducted by MBA post-graduate students at the London Business School.

Areas of interest
At the outset, a number of topics and questions were identified as being of particular interest for investigation. These are grouped and summarised briefly below.

Market and consumer segmentation
(frequency of purchase and use; multiplicity of purchase and use)
The shopping experience
(where fragrances are purchased; the role of the internet)
Purchase motivators
(fragrance purchase drivers; the influence of sampling)
Fragrance pricing
(the perception of price positioning of premium brands)
Usage motivators
(the motivation for wearing fragrances; men’s fragrances worn by women)
Gifting
(the perception of fragrance as a prestige gift; levels of gifting)
The role of fragrance in daily grooming
(the perception of marketing concepts such as “fragrance wardrobe” and “layering”)
Product proliferation
(the perception of the proliferation of fragrance flankers, limited editions, seasonal fragrances and the “grey” market)
Celebrity fragrances
(the perception of celebrity endorsement and of celebrity brands)
Fragrance promotion
(the relative influence of press advertising, TV advertising and beauty press articles)
General market status
(the commoditisation of the premium fine fragrance market; future opportunities)

Executive summary and interpretation by John Ayres

Market and consumer segmentation

The levels of penetration of women’s and men’s fragrance usage appear to be around 50%, with 53% of women and 51% of men claiming to use premium fragrance as part of their daily grooming routine. A further 31% of women claim to use fragrance “occasionally”, while about 32% of men “cannot be bothered”. This latter group includes “retrosexuals”, heterosexual men with little or no interest in personal grooming.

Usage can be segmented according to variety and frequency, with daily usage among women divided between the high interest group termed “fragrance sensualists” (17%) and the high frequency brand-loyal group of “fragrance loyalists” (36%). The fragrance sensualists wear a wide range of fine fragrances, adopt a wardrobe of fragrances and are eager to try new premium products, including men’s fragrances They can be further subdivided by motivation and frequency of use into “aspiring sensualists” and the “fragrance aficionados”, the internet chat room group of early adopters who treat fragrance as a hobby rather like wine tasting. Female usage is highest in the 15-19 and 45-54 age ranges, C1 & C2 demographic groups, the East and West Midlands, the North of England and in Scotland.

The men’s market, at the level of penetration of daily usage, can be similarly segmented into the “fabulously fragrant”, in which the group of “aficionados” includes early adopters among gay men and metrosexuals, and the “regular restricted” brand loyalists who own several fragrances but have one favourite, and tend to purchase in Duty Free. Male usage is highest in the 20-24 age range, C1 & C2 demographic groups and in the North and Northwest of England.

Young men who adopt fragrance as part of their daily routine tend to continue the habit, as they grow older.

The shopping experience

Premium fragrance tends to be bought on impulse, with the exception of purchasing in Duty Free outlets and The Perfume Shop.

The retail sector is dominated by the department stores and by Boots, where store layout and display are of low interest and where the shopping experience, driven by seasonal emphasis, “push” marketing and hard selling of latest launches by poorly trained consultants, has room for considerable improvement. It is summed up by the description “spray alley”.

Notable exceptions, and possible templates for market redevelopment are The Perfume Shop and the Jo Malone stores, which provide customers with a top-class shopping experience.

The Internet has high potential to increase levels of purchase via retailers’ and manufacturers’ web sites, especially for men as an alternative to the in-store shopping experience. Fragrance sampling through print media shows declining interest, while sampling via the Internet has huge potential that is largely untapped.

Purchase motivators

Research data on motivation for purchase are open to question. 32% of women and 35% of men claim that “liking the smell” drives their purchase decision. The impact of brand image and fragrance advertising show low ratings, but research is probably not revealing the underlying influence that these have on purchase decision making. Celebrity associations influenced the stated purchase decision for only 2% of women and 3% of men.

Although only 50% of women and men claimed to sample fragrances prior to making a purchasing decision, in separate research studies 80-90% claimed that they never purchased a fragrance without first smelling it, and that fragrance character was the most important deciding factor. For some iconic designer and perfumery brands such as Prada, Bvlgari and Jo Malone, the brand name and image is the primary driver in initial purchase decision-making. Celebrity branding helps to drive purchase decision-making among the12-19 age group.

Fragrance pricing

There is little research information on the perception of pricing. Fragrance purchase provides a bridge into the luxury goods market, with highest levels of interest for the C1 and C2 demographic groups where heavy users, the fragrance aficionados, are constantly on the look out for promotions, gifts and discounts. There is relatively less interest in fragrance in the AB groups and the majority of people who do not buy premium perfumes stated reasons other than price.

Usage motivators

The reasons why people wear premium fragrances are a complex of psychological motivations including social and sexual attraction, seduction, romance, status definition, confidence building, enhancement of feelings of personal well being and self esteem. There is little research available to help unravel these motivations.

In the segment of “fragrance aficionados”, some women are purchasing men’s fragrances for their fragrance wardrobe, but there is no research evidence for this practice among other fine fragrance users. There is, however, strong anecdotal evidence that this practice is driving a significant level of sales in the men’s fragrance market, where women who wear men’s fragrances are motivated by a desire for a type of refreshment to enhance feelings of personal well being that cannot be found in the women’s fragrance market (for example, there are few women’s fragrances in the aromatic family).

Gifting

Although about 30% of women and men “usually” receive fragrance as a gift, the fragrance selection process is very personal and most fragrance wearers prefer not to receive fragrance as a gift unless specifically requested by name. Recent research by the Fragrance Foundation in New York indicated that 75% of American women who received fragrance as a gift were dissatisfied with the fragrance. According to research conducted by AC Nielsen in 2004, only 10% of female respondents preferred perfume as a prestige gift.

The role of fragrance in daily grooming

The way in which fragrance is applied and used was highlighted as an area of particular concern for the women’s sector. The concept of a “fragrance wardrobe” suggests the use of various fragrances for different occasions. The concept of “fragrance layering” implies the choice of matching body care products that complement the chosen premium fragrance, in order to enhance the fragrance effect and feelings of personal confidence and well being. The research findings indicate that these concepts have no meaning for most fragrance users, and that there is even a lack of knowledge on the basic use of a fragrance spray product, and how it should be applied. This contrasts starkly with the colour cosmetics sector where training and information are widely available.

Changing behaviour patterns in male grooming appear to have fuelled growth in the men’s premium fragrance market. Following the lead set by gay men, ethnic minorities and iconic metrosexuals, urban young men are giving more time and attention to personal grooming and body image. Premium fragrance has become part of men’s daily grooming routine, and the market has potential for further growth.

Product proliferation

Although the annual number of new fragrance launches in the premium sector has increased dramatically in the last five years, fine fragrance market growth remains relatively flat with decreasing return on investment in new product development.

In a crowded and fragmented market, manufacturers are looking for added value and ways to raise their products up above the background noise. The owners of iconic brands attempt to increase earnings and build brand equity with well-judged brand extensions that help to maintain or enhance brand values without over extending the brand and diluting its perceived status.

Issues to be addressed by the fragrance industry are brand proliferation and the development of the grey market, giving the perception that premium fragrance is becoming a commodity.

Factors that fuel this situation include:

Competition for brand share
Competition for internal resources to support new product development
Unrealistic estimates of potential sales
Over-estimated production levels
Over-stocking at the retail level
The off-loading of stock into the grey market

The roles of gift coffrets, fragrance brand flankers, limited editions and summer fragrances are open questions.

Celebrity fragrances

In 2003, any celebrity association with fragrance branding appeared to affect purchase decision-making at a level of only 2% for women and 3% for men. With the proliferation of celebrity brands in the past two years, this information is unreliable.

In general, celebrity endorsement is not an issue, in that no negative opinions are expressed.

On the other hand, celebrity-owned brands evoke mixed reactions. Manufacturers intent on building long-term brand equity gain value from the careful use of celebrity endorsement but not celebrity ownership. Fragrance consumers in the segment labelled “aspiring sensualists”, especially the younger consumers, buy into the idea of celebrity owned brands. “Fragrance aficionados”, however, completely reject them and beauty editors generally treat them with contempt.

Fragrance promotion

Although the influences of fragrance advertising, brand image and promotion on purchase decision-making have been difficult to measure, there seems to be strong correlation between spend on advertising and brand success. A fragrance sample study in 2004 on the relative influence of advertising indicated 78% weighting for a print ad with sample compared with 9% and 10% for straight print ad and TV ad respectively.

General market status

The overall conclusion is that the premium fragrance industry in the UK is caught in an outmoded framework based on selling a product rather than an experience and simply pushing the latest launches in an over-proliferated market.

The market is characterised by :

Reaction to front-end competition, both internal and external
Poor planning
Over production and over stocking
The development of the grey market
The perception of commoditisation of prestige fragrance
Unhelpful shopping experiences
Inappropriate training of sales consultants.

The comparison with the UK wine industry, as it was in the early 1980s, is compelling.

There is a great opportunity to change the market paradigm, using the wine industry model, by adopting a marketing strategy that aims to sell an experience by :

Using a “pull” strategy and evolving it into a “profile” strategy
Engaging the fragrance-buying public*
Telling the stories of fragrances, ingredients and fragrance creative inspiration*
Emphasising the pleasure of using fragrance*
Enlisting media support through press and TV campaigns*
Establishing commitment at the retail level
Providing better training for retail sales consultants*
Encouraging customers to enjoy the fragrance experience*
Providing educational literature on fragrance and how to use it and enjoy it*
Increasing product penetration and frequency of use
Retaining the luxury and prestige attributes of the premium fragrance category

*The Fragrance Foundation can play a key role in this transformation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do we wear perfume and what does our perfume say about us?

There are several dimensions associated with wearing perfume, which often overlap.

We wear perfume to feel more romantic or seductive, to communicate status and exclusivity, to enhance our confidence or to promote feelings of relaxation, health and personal well being. We wear different perfume on different occasions according to which of these dimensions are dominant motivators at the time.

Today, people who use perfume as part of their daily grooming routine tend to wear it “for themselves” rather than to please or attract others and the enhancement of personal confidence is a major factor in the choice of perfume.
Why do our tastes for a favourite perfume change over time?

Our ability to smell and our sensitivity to scents change over short periods of time, e.g. between morning and afternoon and evening, before or after a meal, as well as over longer periods, e.g. with changes of season and ambient temperature, with monthly hormonal changes, during pregnancy, according to our state of health and as we grow older. Our sense of smell is directly linked to our emotional state as well as to genetic patterns that define physical balance and health. Some research suggests that our smell sensitivity declines as we age, so we may tend to prefer stronger, more long lasting scents as we get older. Medical and psychological conditions affect our ability to smell or alter our perception of perfume.

Research by the Fragrance Foundation in 2006 highlighted some reasons why women switch fragrances. They include change of mood, special occasion, change of season, a friend’s recommendation, popularity of the perfume or something seen in press or TV advertising.
Why do perfumes often smell differently on some people than they do on others, and even different on ourselves at different times?

The quick answer is because of different skin chemistry and structure. This is also linked to natural hair colour. There are no strict rules but, in general, redheads often find it difficult to choose a suitable perfume.

Human skin is a complex organ defined by thickness, moisture content, acidity (pH), oiliness and texture. All of these can change at different times and can affect the way a perfume emanates from the skin. In addition, each person has a unique natural scent profile defined genetically. When you find that a perfume that smelled great on a friend just doesn’t work for you, it may be that your basic skin chemistry is changing the scent or rather that the perfume does not complement your own natural scent profile.

Recent research indicates that each person’s natural body scent profile (and perhaps pheromone profile) is unique and is defined genetically. Our sense of smell plays a huge role in sexual attraction. To find the perfume that perfectly complements your own natural scent is perhaps to discover the perfect social and sexual attractant.
What advice can you offer on the best ways, and time of day/month to test a scent on the skin to get a true indication of what it will smell like?

The advice I give to professional Fragrance Evaluators is to know your own individual sensitivities. When is your sense of smell most acute? Are you a morning person or an afternoon/evening person? How do your perceptive abilities and characteristics change over the daily, monthly and seasonal cycles? Most of us have this knowledge but seldom think about it.

Above all it is important to simply relax and enjoy the experience. Try not to test too many scents at the same time – two or three skin perfumes at most, on the wrist or back of the hand, over a period of an hour or more to allow them to develop their full profile. Don’t make quick judgements based on first impressions – they may be intriguing or attractive top note hooks that do not reflect the full character, strengths and weaknesses of the perfume.
What are the main fragrance families (please give a brief explanation of each and a popular example, if possible)?

The main fragrance families, fully defined by the start of the twentieth century when modern perfumery really took off, are the Floral, Oriental, Chypre, Citrus Cologne and Fougère families. During the 1900s and 1920s in Europe two further families became established: the Floral Aldehydic and the Floral Oriental. Each family is characterised by particular perfume ingredients that form the “accords”, or building blocks, and each has a distinct “personality” linked to emotional associations or triggers.

Very briefly:

Floral fragrances represent the most widespread and popular family of feminine fragrances. They range from creations on a single floral theme to complex bouquets.

The basic accord at the heart of all floral fragrances is a muguet, or lily of the valley accord combining elements of rose and jasmine. Emotional attributes include soft femininity, refinement and natural sweet freshness. Classic and modern perfume examples are Joy (Jean Patou, 1930) and Chloé (2008).

Oriental fragrances are sensual, rich blends of exotic resins, opulent flowers, spices, woody blends, powdery vanilla and musk scents refreshed by citrus, green or fruity top notes. They comprise a major fragrance family for both feminine and masculine perfumery. At their heart is a blend of incense and vanilla, which the perfumer recognises as the “amber” accord. Emotional attributes include richness, warmth, sumptuous opulence and sensuality. Examples include Shalimar (Guerlain, 1925), Obsession (Calvin Klein, 1985) and Prada (2004).

The Chypre fragrance theme has been known in Europe since the twelfth century. Chypre is the French name for the island of Cyprus, birthplace of Venus, legendary goddess of love. The family was reintroduced into modern perfumery with the creation of Chypre by François Coty in 1917. Chypre fragrances for women and men are characterised by a Mediterranean blend of dry, fresh, mossy-woody notes based on bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum. They are exotic, intriguing, ambiguous, assertive and often sexy fragrances. Examples include Miss Dior (1947) and Aramis (1965). Chypre fragrances represent an important re-emerging trend today, with lots of examples of both men’s and women’s perfumes, e.g. Tom Ford for Men and Gucci by Gucci for women.

Citrus Cologne fragrances have always been associated with personal refreshment, health and well being. Their distinctive zesty aroma comes from a blend of citrus oils, herbaceous notes like lavender and dry floral elements based on neroli (orange flower) and petitgrain (orange leaf). Emotional attributes are to do with refreshment, rejuvenation, natural health and well being. Classic and modern examples include 4711 Original Cologne (Muelhens, 1792 !) and cK one (Calvin Klein, 1994)

The Fougère family takes its name from the fragrance Fougère Royale, introduced by Houbigant in 1882, and includes most of the key men’s fragrances developed since the mid-1960s. They combine the fresh citrus, herbaceous elements of the Citrus Colognes with rich, warm notes of musks, woods and mosses to create an impression of refreshment, warmth and long-lasting masculine confidence. The “modern classic” example is Brut (Fabergé, 1964). Popular modern fougères include Davidoff’s Cool Water (1988), Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme (1994) Hugo from Hugo Boss (1995) and D&G Light Blue pour Homme (2007).

Floral Oriental fragrances were born in the 1900s with the introduction of L’Origan by François Coty in 1905, followed by Après l’Ondée and L’Heure Bleue by Jacques Guerlain in 1906 and 1912. Intense orange flower notes meld with piquant aldehydes and sweet spices to create the heart of a Floral Oriental fragrance. After its introduction in the 1900s, the category re-emerged strongly in the 1970s and 1980s and has remained a dominant theme in the women’s fragrance market into the twenty-first century. The combination of key elements of the Floral and Oriental families allows for a wide range of creative interpretations and concepts. Popular modern introductions include Armani Code for women and The One from Dolce & Gabbana (both launched in 2006).

The Floral Aldehydic group was introduced with the creation of Chanel No 5 by Ernest Beaux in 1921, in which a newly available range of aroma chemicals called aliphatic aldehydes was used to give creamy radiance and sophistication to a powdery-floral composition. Modern examples include Moschino Couture! (2003), Agent Provocateur Maîtresse (2006) and Prada’s Infusion d’Iris (2007).
Are there particular perfumes we should wear to get a certain message across (eg. when is it appropriate to wear a floral/musky/spicy scent)? Are certain scents more suited to particular personality types?

As described above, each fragrance family has its own personality, but each person’s ideal fragrance is unique to themselves. Research in the USA suggests there is trend towards fresh, clean, fruity, citrus scents and away from marine, herbal, musky and spicy notes. The same research suggests that under-18s prefer citrus notes, under-25s prefer fruity and flowery notes, while 35-49s like sexier, musky notes. Other research indicates that certain types of perfume can change perceptions of the wearer’s age, size and weight!
How do the different types of perfumes (ie. cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum and parfum) differ in the way they react to the skin and how should each be applied for the best result?

There are no strict definitions of terms like Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Extrait Parfum. The most commonly sold units are called Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum, and, as a general guide, an EdP is approximately twice the concentration of perfume as an EdT. Both products are mixtures of pure perfume oil with alcohol and a little water with, sometimes, small amounts of other ingredients to improve skin feel. The concentrations of perfume in alcohol range from 5 to 15% for an EdT or 15 to 30% for an EdP. Some prestige perfume brands use different perfume oils for the two products, so that the EdP, as well as being used at a higher concentration, will have been rebalanced to make it richer, warmer and more luxurious compared with the EdT, which may be lighter and more refreshing.

Today most EdT and EdP are sold as natural sprays. When first applying, spritz into the air a couple of times to prime the spray before applying the perfume by spritzing around the neck and upper chest area two to six times, depending on the strength of the fragrance and the effect to be achieved. The overall aura, or presence of the fragrance is significantly enhanced by layering the spray perfume onto a previously applied foundation of perfumed body lotion from the same range.

Because fragrance sprays are in sealed bottles, the life of the perfume before it starts going off can be a year or more if kept in the dark at a cool temperature. The main enemy of perfume is direct sunlight. The spray should be replaced if it shows signs of darkening. But if perfume is applied as part of the daily grooming routine, it will be replaced regularly, long before any signs of deterioration.
What are some common myths about perfume?

I think the prevalent modern myths are that “natural is always better and safer” and that “most modern perfumes are mainly chemicals”. Both of these statements are incorrect.

Natural fragrance ingredients are complex mixtures of natural chemicals, while many individual synthetic aroma chemicals are identical to those in nature. All ingredients are under continuing safety review.

High-quality fine fragrances are created from subtle, complex blends of natural and synthetic ingredients, all of which fulfill valuable technical and aesthetic roles. Natural ingredients give life, radiance and authentic quality to a perfume, while synthetic aroma chemicals provide strength and structural integrity. They can inspire new creative directions, lending new “colours” to the perfumer’s palette. The major fine fragrance trends throughout the twentieth century were frequently inspired by the availability of new synthetic aroma chemicals.