A History of Fragrance
THE DEVELOPMENT OF MODERN PERFUMERY
It is likely that fragrances have been used to seduce, to adorn and to enhance fashion since the first fig leaves.
Here is a brief summary of the historical developments in fragrance up to the end of the 19th century:
Early history - 1900 - 1920 - 1930 - 1940 - 1950 - 1960 - 1970 - 1980 - 1990
The “New Noughties”: 2000 to 2009
Early history
| Pre-History: | Burning of fragrant materials in ceremonies and rites. |
| Ancient Egyptian civilisations: | Perfumes and perfumed materials used for purification, personal adornment, daily hygiene and seduction. (First recorded association of perfume with sexual seduction.) Perfume reached its zenith in Egypt during the time of Cleopatra. |
| Ancient Greece: | Perfume used principally for religious ceremonies. |
| Ancient Rome: | Perfume used excessively for religion, seduction and entertainment. Origins of the word “Perfume” from “per fumen”, “through smoke”. |
| Middle Ages/Renaissance: | Perfuming of leather goods. |
| 9th to 12th Centuries: | The Arabs learned the art and science of Chemistry from the Greeks. The great Arab physician, Avicenna, discovered the process of distillation. |
| 13th Century: | The Arabs brought a highly developed perfume culture to Europe, which flourished with the influx of aromatic spices, fragrant ointments and essences. Alcohol was produced by distillation. |
| 14th Century: | One of the earliest toilet waters was made by distilling aromatic plants with wine alcohol. Made for the queen of Hungary, it became popular throughout Europe, as Hungary Water. |
| 16th & 17th Centuries: | The French court was the centre of culture in the civilised world, characterised by extravagance, pomp and luxury. Perfume creations were commissioned for royalty and the nobility. Perfumes were used to counteract bad odours and sickness. The start of the long association of France & French culture with perfume. |
| 18th Century: | Industrial Revolution. Grasse, a leather tanning town, established as the European centre for fragrance production, supplying the cultural centre, Paris. In 1792, the house of Muelhens launched Eau de Cologne 4711, made in the city of Cologne at house number 4711 under Napoleon’s rule. |
| 19th Century: | In 1853, Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain created Eau de Cologne Imperiale for the Empress Eugenie. The first synthetic aroma chemicals were produced, starting with the synthesis of vanillin from guaiacol in 1874. The glove maker and perfumier, Houbigant, created Fougere Royale in 1882. Guerlain launched Jicky in 1889. |
Before the mid-19th century, the development of fragrances for personal use was restricted to royalty, nobility and the wealthy.
The story of the development of alcoholic perfumery is really the story of the fragrance and fashion in the 20th century.
The turn of the century was a time of rapid change and enormous creative and intellectual development – in science, technology, the arts, society and fashion.
The 1900s
The mood in fashion and society is expressed as oriental escapism.
This mood is reflected in perfume.
1905: L’Origan by Coty (Floral Oriental)
1906: Après l’Ondée by Guerlain (Floral Oriental)
The 1910s
Women’s fashions become less restrictive, while women’s right to vote becomes a focus for political attention, with the Suffragette movement. The Foxtrot is the most popular dance craze.
Fragrances still have a strong oriental tendency, but with the addition of floral creations.
It is a time of social and political upheaval in Europe, culminating with the First World War.
At this time, Chypre fragrances are introduced by Coty.
1910: Parfums Rosine by Paul Poiret (a range of Florals and Orientals)
1911: Narcisse Noir by Caron (Floral)
1912: L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain (Floral Oriental)
1912: Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant (Floral)
1917: Le Chypre by Coty (Chypre)
1919: Mitsouko by Guerlain (Chypre)
The 1920s
The post-war mood in fashionable society was one of freedom, rebellion and escapism.
“Flapper” was a term used to describe a fashionable young woman, intent on enjoying herself and flouting conventional standards of behaviour.
The dance crazes of the flapper generation include the Charleston and the Bunny Hug.
Post-war fragrances and fashion were revolutionised by a woman: Mme. Gabrielle (“Coco”) Chanel; with the launch of a new, original style of fragrance, Chanel No 5, and the introduction of a new fragrance family - the Aldehydic Florals.
This was a period of rich variety in fashion design and fragrance development. Chypre and oriental fragrances remained popular, together with fragrances inspired by textures and fabrics, such as Les Parfums Fourrure, or “fur” fragrances.
1921: Chanel No 5 by Coco Chanel (Aldehydic Floral)
1925: Shalimar by Guerlain (Oriental)
1925: Crêpe de Chine by Millot (Chypre)
1927: L’Aimant by Coty (Aldehydic Floral)
1927: Arpège by Lanvin (Floral Aldehydic)
1928: Zibeline by Weil (Chypre)
1928: Soir de Paris by Bourjois (Aldehydic Floral)
The 1930s
The rich were wearing the fashion designs of Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Jean Patou, Lucien Lelong and Charles Frederick Worth.
The greatest influence on all, regardless of class or social status was the movies.
Stock market crash led Europe into the worst economic recession of the century.
Slacks were worn by women for the first time and some revolutionary new fragrances were launched.
1930: Joy by Jean Patou
1931: Tabu by Dana (Oriental)
1932: Je Reviens by Worth (Aldehydic Floral)
1934: Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden (Aldehydic Floral Fougère)
1935: Canoé by Dana (Fougère)
1937: Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli (Chypre)
1937: Old Spice by Shulton (Oriental)
The 1940s
Europe at war. Fashion design and fragrance development were on
Hold, with one notable exception – Chantilly by Houbigant.
Post-war development of the aroma chemical industry, fragrance and fashion expanded rapidly.
Women’s fashion was redefined by Christian Dior’s “New Look”.
Fragrance directions, at a time of change, turned towards the Chypre family.
1941: Chantilly by Houbigant (Oriental)
1944: Femme by Marcel Rochas (Chypre)
1944: Bandit by Robert Piguet (Chypre)
1946: Ma Griffe by Carven (Chypre)
1947: Vent Vert by Pierre Balmain (Floral)
1947: Miss Dior by Christian Dior (Chypre)
1948: L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci (Floral)
1948: Fracas by Robert Piguet (Floral)
1949: Acqua di Selva by Victor (Chypre)
The 1950s
The birth of modern Youth Culture in the UK and USA: Teddy Boys and Elvis.
Fragrance and fashion development started to focus on New York, which was soon to become as influential as Paris.
Surprisingly few significant fragrance launches in this decade.
1953: Youth Dew by Estée Lauder (Oriental)
1955: Intimate by Revlon (Chypre)
1955: Pino Sylvestre Original by Mavive (Chypre)
1956: Diorissimo by Christian Dior (Floral)
1957: L’Interdit by Givenchy (Aldehydic Floral)
1959: Cabochard by Grès (Chypre)
The 1960s
A decade of social revolution. The start of modern liberation in style, fashion, marketing and social behaviour.
The era of “pot”, LSD, Hippies, Mods and Rockers, the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, the oral contraceptive, the mini skirt and constant fear of nuclear annihilation.
London became the centre for youth culture, fashion, pop music and hair styling. Fashion was redefined by Biba and Mary Quant.
Men’s and women’s fashion took on equal importance and the fashion icon was Twiggy, the “mod” model.
The men’s fragrance market was born.
In 1969, man walked on the moon, women wore knee-high boots and moon suits by Courrèges, and hot pants were the fashion craze in Paris.
1961: Calèche by Hermès (Aldehydic Chypre)
1962: Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez (Floral Oriental)
1964: Brut by Fabergé (Fougère)
1965: Aramis by Estée Lauder (Chypre)
1966: Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior (Cologne)
1966: Imprévu by Coty (Chypre)
1966: Fidji by Guy Laroche (Floral)
1968: Super Estée by Estée Lauder (Floral)
1969: Calandre by Paco Rabanne (Aldehydic Floral)
1969: Dioressence by Christian Dior (Oriental)
The 1970s
Flower Power gave way to the Punk era and women’s liberation.
There was an explosion of hundreds of new fragrance launches.
Charlie, by Revlon, was the fragrance expression of social change.
Floriental fragrances were the major area of fragrance development.
1970: Givenchy III by Givenchy (Chypre)
1971: Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent (Aldehydic Floral)
1972: Aliage by Estee Lauder (green floral Chypre)
1972: Diorella by Christian Dior (Cologne/Eau Fraîche)
1973: Paco Rabanne pour Homme (Fougère)
1973: Charlie by Revlon (Floral)
1975: Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld (Floral)
1975: Halston by Halston (Chypre)
1977: Oscar by Oscar de la Renta (Floriental)
1977: Opium by Yves Saint Laurent (Oriental)
1978: Cinnabar by Estée Lauder (Oriental)
1978: Mystère by Rochas (Floriental)
1978: Magie Noire by Lancôme (Oriental)
1978: Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel (Floral)
1978: White Linen by Estée Lauder (Aldehydic Floral)
1978: Lauren by Ralph Lauren (Floral)
1979: Nahema by Guerlain (Floriental)
The 1980s
The era of Thatcher, Regan and “yuppy” aspirations. A time of financial boom in the stock market.
A “Dynasty” culture, obsessed with wealth, status and designer labels.
Women’s fashion centred on tailored suits padded shoulders, stilt heels and power dressing.
The social battles were fought in the work place.
Powerful white floral, Floriental and Chypre fragrances ruled the “Poison” era.
Power was everything.
Towards the end of the decade, things began to change with the introduction of a new style of fragrance, described as “Ozonic”, coming from the West Coast of the United States – inspired by sun and sea.
1980: Eau de Givenchy by Givenchy (Floral)
1980: Ivoire by Pierre Balmain (Aldehydic Floral)
1981: Giorgio by Giorgio Beverley Hills (Floral)
1982: Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche (Fougère)
1983: Paris by Yves Saint Laurent (Floral)
1983: Diva by Ungaro (Chypre)
1985: Beautiful by Estée Lauder (Floral)
1985: Obsession by Calvin Klein (Oriental)
1985: Poison by Christian Dior (Floriental)
1986: Montana by Claude Montana (Chypre)
1986: Calyx by Estée Lauder Prescriptives (Floral/Ozonic)
1987: Loulou by Cacharel (Oriental)
1988: Knowing by Estée Lauder (Chypre)
1988: Eternity by Calvin Klein (Floral)
1988: Cool Water by Davidoff (Fougère)
1988: New West for Him by Aramis (Ozonic)
The 1990s
The first half of the decade was a period of reaction against the urban dominance and consuming excesses of the 80s. The concept of nature in all its manifestations became the driving force in fragrance and product development.In a search for truth and authenticity, fashion turned to retro-styles.
The “post-Poison” era of fragrance creation was marked by a greater variety of new directions and sources of inspiration.
The dominant influences were “watery”, “ozonic” and new “transparent” fruity and floral accords. Japanese designers changed the images of Parisian fashion.
Power and diffusion were redefined by “transparent”, “sheer” and “enveloping” fragrances.
During the second half of the decade, youth culture came to dominate the fashion industry.
The fragrance market was flooded with new launches each year: new fragrances range extensions and flankers, limited editions, seasonal fragrances and fragrances from new designers and specialty retailers.
Sephora introduced a new more accessible fragrance retail experience, while the concept of “aroma-chology”, linking fragrance to holistic personal well-being, began to drive a new fragrance sector.
1990: New West Skinscent for Her by Aramis (Ozonic)
1991: Kenzo pour Homme (Ozonic)
1991: Escape by Calvin Klein (Ozonic Floral)
1992: Angel by Thierry Mugler (Gourmand)
1992: L’Eau d’Issey (Ozonic)
1993: Vanilla Fields by Coty (Gourmand)
1993: Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden (Ozonic Floral)
1993: Jean Paul Gaultier Classique (Floriental)
1994: cK one by Calvin Klein (Cologne)
1994: L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake (Ozonic)
1994: Tendre Poison by Christian Dior (Floral)
1995: Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier (Oriental)
1995: Pleasures by Estée Lauder (Floral)
1995: Hugo by Hugo Boss (Fougère)
1996: L’Eau par Kenzo (Ozonic Floral)
1996: A*men by Thierry Mugler (Gourmand Oriental)
1996: Acqua di Gio pour Homme by Giorgio Armani (Ozonic)
1996: Allure by Chanel (Floriental)
1996: Organza by Givenchy (Oriental)
1997: French Connection (Cologne)
1998: Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior (Oriental)
1998: Odeur 53 by Comme des Garçons (Ozonic)
1998: Emporio Armani She by Giorgio Armani (Floriental)
1998: Emporio Armani He by Giorgio Armani (Chypre)
1998: Noa by Cacharel (Aldehydic Floral)
1998: Romance by Ralph Lauren (Floral Chypre)
1999: J’Adore by Christian Dior (Floral)
1999: Aromatonic by Lancôme
1999: Green Tea Scent by Elizabeth Arden (Cologne)
The “New Noughties”: 2000 to 2009
The “fastest decade ever” and the decade of celebrity.
After the unfounded fear of the “millenium bug” had passed, the early years of the decade were marked by political crisis and upheaval: the destruction of the twin towers of the World Trade Centre by Al-Quaida terrorists on 11th September 2001, the emergence of international terrorism and the “war on terror” in Afganistan and Iraq.
The closing years of the decade were marked by the death of Michael Jackson, by the election of Barack Obama as the first African-American president of the United States, and by the “sub-prime mortgage” scandal leading to the worst collapse of financial systems since 1929. While China rose to become the most powerful country in the world, global environmental concerns centred on issues of climate change, population growth, food shortages the predicted decline of natural resources.
Rapid technological and social changes came with the growth of the World Wide Web, Internet shopping (Amazon and Ebay), blogs and social networking sites (youtube, facebook and twitter), while TV programmes like “Big Brother” and “The X Factor” promoted celebrity status as every young person’s aspiration. Internet dating in 2000 was a last resort; by 2009 it had become the norm.
The biggest influence on high street fashion was “Sex and the City”, with its vintage looks, designer bags and shoes.
London fashion in the new noughties was dominated by Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss and Sienna Miller, by the influence of Prada, Marc Jacobs and Chanel, by low-priced, high-fashion designs from high street stores like H&M and Primark, and by the emergence of the “metrosexual” man. The men’s skin care market grew by 900% during the decade.
Fashion highlights through the decade included skinny jeans, big handbags, hard square shoulders and the thin sheath dress.
The fragrance market approached saturation with new fragrance introductions reaching higher levels than ever before. In the global fine fragrance market, less than 100 fragrances were introduced in 1985, followed by between 100 and 200 in 1995 and over 700 in 2005.
A defining influence on fragrance trends was the phenomenon of celebrity fragrances, which were given a fresh burst of energy by the outstanding success of Glow by J. Lo, launched in 2002. By the end of the decade celebrity fragrances had run their course, with successful brands like Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears and the Beckhams having become part of the mainstream. The dominant creative influence came from the niche luxury sector where fragrance creativity is unencumbered by price considerations or by extensive consumer research programmes. At the same time, the desire for exclusivity inspired the rebirth of classic couturier fragrances and house names.
As the decade progressed, the dominant theme in fragrance creation was the emergence of the woods-spice-amber accord for both men’s and women’s fragrances, characterised by the prominence of patchouli oil. The fougére theme of men’s fragrances in the 80s and 90s gave way to warmer, more sensual woody oriental, woody and chypre accents, while in the women’s market, floral oriental fragrances peaked in 2006 and 2007 to be largely overshadowed by the strong development of the woody and woody oriental families, together with some striking fragrance additions in the chypre category.
Listed below is a selection of the vast numbers of fragrances introduced in the women’s, men’s, and “unisex” segments.
2000: Agent Provocateur (Chypre)
2000: FlowerbyKenzo (Floral)
2000: Miracle by Lancôme (Floral)
2000: Truth Calvin Klein (Woody Oriental)
2001: Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel (Woody Oriental)
2001: Cologne by Thierry Mugler (Citrus Cologne)
2001: Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana (Fresh Floral)
2001: Higher by Christian Dior (Fougère)
2001: Nu by Yves St Laurent (Oriental)
2002: Baldessarini (Woody Oriental)
2002: Chance by Chanel (Woody Oriental)
2002: DiorAddict by Christian Dior (Oriental)
2002: Glow by J.Lo (Aldehydic Floral)
2002: M7 by Yves St Laurent (Woody Oriental)
2003: Beyond Paradise by Estée Lauder (Floral)
2003: Black Kenneth Cole (Fougère)
2003: Burberry Brit (Floriental)
2003: Echo by Davidoff (Fougère)
2003: Narciso Rodriguez for Her (Chypre)
2003: Stella by Stella McCartney (Floral)
2004: Armani Code for Men by Giorgio Armani (Woody Oriental)
2004: Be Delicious DKNY (Fresh Floral)
2004: Eau des Merveilles by Hermès (Woody Oriental)
2004: Prada (Oriental)
2004: Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Sty Laurent (Fougère)
2004: Touch of Pink by Lacoste (Floral Oriental)
2005: Alien by Thierry Mugler (Floral Oriental)
2005: Dior Homme (Floral)
2005: Euphoria by Calvin Klein (Woody Oriental / Gourmand)
2005: Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf (Floral / Gourmand)
2005: Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier (Oriental)
2005: Instinct, David Beckham (Citrus Cologne)
2006: Antidote by Viktor & Rolf (Woody Oriental)
2006: Armani Code for Women by Giorgio Armani (Floral Oriental)
2006: L’Homme by Yves St Laurent (Woody)
2006: Nina (2006) by Nina Ricci (Floral / Gourmand)
2006: Prada “Men” (Ambre pour Homme) (Chypre)
2006: Terre d’Hermès (Woody)
2006: The One by Dolce & Gabbana (Floral Oriental)
2007: Chance Eau Fraîche by Chanel (Floral)
2007: No 5 Eau Première by Chanel (Floral Aldehydic)
2007: cK IN2U Her by Clavin Klein (Floral Oriental)
2007: cK IN2U Him by Calvin Klein (Woody)
2007: Daisy by Marc Jacobs (Fresh Floral)
2007: Elle by Yves St Laurent (Woody)
2007: Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier (Floral Oriental)
2007: Light Blue pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana (Ozonic Fougère)
2007: Tokyo by Kenzo (Chypre)
2007: Tom Ford for Men (Chypre)
2008: 1 Million by Paco Rabanne (Woody Oriental)
2008: Adventure by Davidoff (Fougère)
2008: Chloé (2008) (Floral)
2008: Ed Hardy Men (Oriental)
2008: Emporio Armani Diamonds for Women (Woody Oriental)
2008: Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men (Woody)
2008: Gucci by Gucci (Chypre)
2008: Gucci by Gucci pour Homme (Chypre)
2008: Guerlain Homme (Woody)
2008: Harajuku Lovers (collection) by Gwen Stefani
2008: Infusion d’Homme by Prada (Floral)
2008: KenzoPower (Woody)
2008: Ma Dame by Jean Paul Gaultier (Floral)
2008: Magnifique by Lancôme (Woody)
2008: Notorious by Ralph Lauren (Woody Oriental)
2008: Sensuous by Estée Lauder (Woody)
2009: A Scent by Issey Miyake (Fresh Floral)
2009: Boss Orange by Hugo Boss (Woody Oriental)
2009: cK Free by Calvin Klein (Woody)
2009: Flora by Gucci (Chypre)
2009: Hot Water by Davidoff (Woody Oriental)
2009: Lacoste Challenge (Woody)
2009: Lola by Marc Jacobs (Floral / Gourmand)
2009: Only the Brave by Diesel (Woody Oriental)
2009: Parisienne by Yves St Laurent (Floral)
